Ek Balam

Back side of what once was an observatory

Ek Balam is a fascinating place.  It was discovered about 15 years ago but didn't really become a tourist sight until about 8 years ago.  David, our tour guide, said that excavation was slow at first but after a hurricane came through and blew away a lot of jungle, it uncovered some interesting finds that brought Ek Balam to the tourist forefront.  There are hundreds upon hundreds of Mayan ruins hidden in the jungle.  The government only allows sights to be excavated that will bring in money from tourists.  Plus a lot of the old ruins are on old family lands that still have people living in on them and sometimes in them.   

Ek Balam in Mayan means "Black Jaguar".  Ek Balam is believed to have been a very important city which dates back to 700 AD and was inhabited as early as 100 BC.  Records indicate that Ek Balam was populated and flourishing for about 1,000 years where most Mayan cities didn't last that long.  It was founded by the first ruler Coch Cal Balam.   In 800 AD Ukil-Kan-Lek-Tok ruled Ek Balam.  When he came and conquered the city, instead of building another temple on top of the existing temple, he build his home on the temple.  His tomb was found inside the main pyramid which is called "The Acropolis".  

The burial chamber where Ukil-Kan-Lek-Tok's body was located.  These stone teeth give the impression of a massive Jaguar's mouth protecting the tomb.

Another idea to the "monster mouth" is that it represents a portal to the "other world".  Evidence suggests that there were bloodletting rituals at Ek Balam.  It would be self inflicted by the priests and nobles.  Some suggest that one of the human figures above the mouth is in the posture of a defeated enemy about to be sacrificed.  

And of course the Mayan ruins would not be complete without the ritual ball court.  Apparently this game was vital to Mayan life and would be played in front of kings, priests, and noblemen.  The winning team leader would be sacrificed and offered to the Gods.  So not only did they pollute their water source but they also killed off their best warriors and players.....not very smart if you ask me.  

After the game ended, the "winner" would be taken to the Jaguar's mouth and thrown down a 60 foot hole that had wooden spikes at the bottom.  Not a pleasant way to die if you ask me.  I'm not sure if they meant that the pit was inside the chamber with the Jaguar teeth or not.  I did find a hole in the ground off to the side of that chamber that David told me was the sacrificial cenote.  Anyway, this hole was "lovingly" called the "Gate of Hell".  Apparently the sacrifice of humans and animals was very important to the Mayans as they believed that bloodletting was a way of speaking with their Gods. 

Looks to me like a place to do sacrifice.

We couldn't go down there but I wonder if this is the 60 foot pit.

So the main pyramid or Acropolis is huge, it's over 500 feet long and 200 feet wide with 106 steps to the top.  It has chambers upon chambers branching off of it.  David said they were probably houses for all of the wives and concubines.  The story David told us about Ek Balam's discovery and then massive transformation into tourist destination was interesting.  They believe that when the Spanish were conquering, the king of the city didn't want anyone to discover the temple or burial chamber.  And this idea of the city being abandoned by a conquering force is backed up by a wall that looked hastily built to try and keep an invading force out of the city center. Anyway, king what's-his-biscuit had his people grind up the limestone into a paste and covered all of the carvings and chambers.  When invading forces arrived, they found nothing but an abandoned city.  Centuries of jungle growth and a hurricane later......the hurricane blew away some of this limestone revealing the carvings underneath....which is why they look brand new.  They've been protected from the elements for centuries and it's these pristine carvings that drew in the tourists.  

Coming upon the main temple.

Rooms on the main temple.

I  just love all of the greenery.

During the time that the city was inhabited, those thatched roofs wouldn't have been there.  They have them there now to protect the carvings from the elements.

 These are all of the carvings around the Jaguar's mouth.

I find this carving to be very interesting.

David said that there were tons and tons of chambers and passageways in, around, and under the main temple.  I'm a curious person by nature and my curiosity was dying to explore....unfortunately they won't let you explore.  My curiosity says I NEED to see what's in these chambers.....sigh.

We ventured to the top of the temple and climbed anywhere and everywhere it was permitted and got some good pictures.

That big mound of trees isn't a hill, it's a temple ruin that has not yet been excavated.

Every now and then I manage to get a cool shot.  I like the sun streaming over the trees.

Side view looking down on the main temple

They say on a good day you can see clear to Cobe and Chichen Itza.  It's hard to see but in the upper right corner is another mound of trees...yet another uncovered ruin.

Another view of the mound from the very top of the temple.

It's a good thing I'm not afraid of heights because that is really steep.

More flat

This is the back side of the main temple.

On top of the world.

I was quite proud of this picture too.

 There were plenty of other things that we investigated while at Ek Balam

Entrance to Ek Balam

Archway to the Sacbe (roads)

Feral dogs that roam the area.  They are cute and very friendly.

We wore him out.

On the left is a row of houses.

Someone, at some point in time called this home.

hmmm, where does this go?

City center

David said this would have been the library or place where they kept the records

Our fabulous tour guide, David.

The front steps of the observatory

A very large stela.

So, this looks like a baptismal font and could have possibly been used as one.  This one was probably used for some of their bloodletting rituals.

AWWW!!  Fabulous red hair.

Daddy and Meow-meow taking a break.

Standing in the entrance to the city.

 We waved goodbye to Ek Balam and started our journey to the last leg of our day long adventure.  Next up is the old Spanish Colonial town of Vallidolid Yucatan.

The tours were great and Alma's LDS tours was amazing, but some day I want to return and explore these ruins on my own and see the places that we didn't have time to with the tour group.